Warhammer Imperial Guard Painting & Airbrush Update – 40K Blog
Some updates on the painting of my Warhammer Imperial Guard forces.
I managed to get a couple of quick sessions in with my airbrush recently to try and make some progress with my Warhammer Imperial Guard forces – and I never want to see Castellen Green again. I got a layer of the green down onto my Malcador Defender, Valkyrie, Vulture and magnetised Taurox (Prime). That’s a lot of green.
Warhammer Imperial Guard Painting
I think I broke my airbrush needle while cleaning at the end of the last painting session – although I have not had chance yet to use it so it might be OK. It might not. Anyway I have a new en route from air-craft.net ready for my next session. I have now found my flow I think when it comes to airbrushing – as I have now had zero clogs during my last two painting sessions.
These are things I notice myself doing often and they seem to be working – think of them as newbie/starter airbrushing hints and tips;
- I mix my paints outside of the airbrush cup, I used to do it in the cup because I saw/read that somewhere. But doing that seems to lead to clogging so now I mix it in a little beaker and pour the paint into the cup when its right. When I say mix I mean mixing my paint with airbrush thinner. I use only Games Workshop Citadel Paints – because thats what I know.
- Don’t drain the beaker, I used to get every single little bit of paint out of the mixing beaker into the airbrush cup but this I think leads to clogging because you end up with all the crap at the bottom of the beaker. The heavier bits of paint hat might have congealed a little. So I leave a little left now and don’t drain the beaker fully. Its a small price to pay ad to be honest I lose more paint from Games Workshop’s really badly designed paint pots.
- Wash and maintain the mixing brush, I used to mix with just an old brush because it gets whacked around a lot and takes a lot of abuse when I am mixing thinner and my paint. I still use an old brush but I wash it more often – after each beaker mix, rather than just leaving it be. If I left it be it would get caked up and full of paint, by cleaning it more it remains clean and doesn’t bring congealed paint into my airbrush cup.
- Run airbrush cleaner a lot, after each full cup that goes onto my models I run some airbrush cleaner through to ensure its clear again ready for the next cup full of paint. I even do this when using the same colour.
This might all be obvious to a lot of people but this little process helps me keep painting and losing less time stood with my airbrush in bits cleaning it. Doing all the above also means I can clean it at the end really fast.
Vulture and Valkyrie
It took a year for me to start building the Vulture, and its NOT going to take me a year to paint it. So its gone from plastic to black to green in a week or so. The next question is do I use Zandri Dust on it and make it into my normal Cadian Camo Stripes? Or do I leave it as it is – as green all over? I am siding on the Cadian Camo Stripes simply because its going to look awesome and match everything else. Granted it might not be what you would do in real life – but planes spend time on the ground right? So why not camouflage them for the ground?
Magnetised Taurox (Prime) with Wheels
This little all terrain bad boy has not seen any action yet but I hope he does soon. Its magnetised fully to be a Taurox or a Taurox Prime. And yes, the wheels, loving the wheels! More on the Taurox Wheels.
Another model that has yet to see any action! I do love this model though, I think I want 3 in total – even though I have no idea how its going to perform on the table top. But 3 Demolisher Cannons cannot be a bad thing right?